Have Suitcase, Will Travel

To all of you told me to “Go see Sydney,” you were right! Sydney is a charming city, encircling and embracing Sydney Harbor. It reminds me of the way Portland, Oregon winds along, and reaches back and forth over the Willamette River. There is a cheap and reliable system of ferries, trains, and busses, and even a new Metro in Sydney to get you across, under and around both sides of the harbor. And you don’t even need a transit pass, you can just tap your credit card when you get on and off. Handy!

Cherie, Bernie and I landed in Sydney on Wednesday night and were hosted by Bernie’s brother John. He has a beautiful home in North Sydney, and he and his son Matthew prepared us a nice meal of lamb, sausages, and watermelon salad (paired with a fine selection of wines) as we unwound from our three day road trip. Cherie and Bernie had to return to Melbourne the next day, but I continued to stay with John until I left for Bangkok on Saturday.

I made the most of the public transportation AND my legs over the next couple of days. Thursday morning, after breakfast and goodbyes with Cherie and Bernie, I jumped on the  Crows Nest Metro Station and rode it to Barangaroo, on the other side of the harbor. I emerged in the historic "The Rocks" neighborhood in the shadow of the Harbor Bridge, and  made my way  along the water to the Circular Quay, which is the major transportation hub for Sydney's trams and water ferries. Just before I reached the Quay there was a cruise ship loading on a nearby pier. This thing was gigantic! It made the Titanic look like a ship for ants. It truly was a city on the water. I couldn't imagine being trapped on the ocean in one of those behemoths, surrounded by thousands of vacationers. Add that to the list of my worst nightmares!

At the Quay there were six or seven piers with ferries headed to every part of Sydney. I was tempted to jump on one, but could see the Sydney Opera house beckoning in the distance, so after a short rest I headed that way. There are few buildings in the world as iconic as the Sydney Opera house, and it is a truly incredible building. I walked around it and admired the sloping curves of its "sails" and wondered what it would be like to see a live performance inside. That, I guess, will have to wait for my next visit.

The Royal Botanical Gardens are conveniently adjacent to the Opera House, and at dinner the evening before, Matthew had mentioned that there was a rare Corpse Flower there on the verge of blooming. Once I passed through the garden gates (no admission fee!) I followed the Corpse Flower arrows plastered on the sidewalks to the greenhouse where the mystery awaited. I passed so many wondrous sprawling trees along the way, in whose shade lovers snuggled, elders napped, students read, and children climbed and cavorted. It is a magical place where one could easily spend days appreciating nature's gifts and simply letting the hours roll by.

After waiting in a short queue outside the greenhouse, I was escorted with a couple of dozen folks inside, where "Putricia," was putting on her show. The Corpse Flower, native to Western Sumatra, only blossoms every few years because of the tremendous energy the giant flower consumes, and then it only lasts for twenty-four hours. The name comes from the deathly odor the blossom emanates to attract beetles and flies to pollinate the plant. Putricia wasn't blooming yet when I was there, and there was no smell, but the blossom stalk was on full display and ready to unfold. In fact, I found out later that it bloomed the very next day!

Before the day was through I made it back to the Circular Quay and rode a ferry to Manly, which was alive with shoppers, and bathers headed to Manly Beach. I grabbed a microbrew and some fish and chips from 4 Pines brewing, and then strolled over to the beach and soaked up some sun.

I took another ferry back to John's house, and then he drove us to supper at Shorties Bar for some tasty small plates and exceptional wines. For those of you who like wine, love to travel and haven't been to Australia, get on over here. The wines are divine and the dinners are winners. 

Friday was mostly walking and beaches. I took a ride-share from John's house in North Sydney to Coogee Beach in SE Sydney. After powering up with some strong coffee, I jumped on the pedestrian coastal trail and headed North. The path goes for miles, and wends up and down stairs, along cliffs, through a fantastic cemetery, and past at least a half-dozen white sand beaches tucked back in coves along the way. It was one heck of a workout, and worth every step. I took a couple of swim breaks over the course of the walk, and grabbed a cold beer and some nachos at my destination in Bondi before jumping on the bus (make that bus+tram+bus) and heading home.

Another fine dinner with John, and my Sydney adventure was at an end. John dropped me at the airport the next morning (Jan 25) , and I was on my way to Thailand.

Next Post: Busy, busy Bangkok!